This is just a small followup of this post: http://oysteineliassen.blogspot.no/2012/09/diy-synced-telecine-with-eumig-mark.html
Here are some pictures :-)
First off, i kept the big ALU part that locks the gear mechanism. It is held at fixed position (6 fps) with some pressure from the steel plate in the top of the first picture. I just rotate this plate to press inn the big alu gear part.
As for the reliability i managed to transfer 2 reels of 100 meters and about 12 reels of 15 meters without breakdown of the micro switch.
Hope this is of some use to someone.
Hi again Øystein, I have cleaned out my 610D now and was looking at the microswitch stuff. I saw your schematic on your other post and pictures here. Thank you. I wonder though why you have a wire soldered to the normally open contact on the switch? I think that your blue wire is normally closed and green is common, correct?
ReplyDeleteI am just wondering how best to wire this. I think I would like to use two 3.5mm jacks which I will mount on the plastic cover over the motor housing... one will be the input for the microphone and the other will be the output for the camera. That way if I decide I want to use a different microphone (or sine wave generator, etc.) later I can do so easily. I figured I would just insert the microswitch in between the two 3.5mm jacks, such that the circuit is only connected when the pulldown occurs.
But I thought I could do that with just 2 wires? Since mic is monaural it would just be tip and sleeve on the jacks run to the NC and C terminals on the microswitch, right?
Sorry if my question is dumb. I'm not very skilled with electronics--know just enough to be dangerous :-)
Thanks again for your tips.
Dan
P.S. Oh yes, another question. Why do you have the piece of steel on the left of the aluminum gear cover? From your description it seems you use that to prevent changing the speed from 6fps? Was that necessary for the modification or you just wanted extra insurance that you didn't change speeds accidentally?
Also, did you experiment with 9fps and find it more unreliable? I am willing to do 6fps if it works better, but saving time is always good too :-)
OK I think you designed your circuit differently--switch is parallel with the microphone and not in series between microphone and camera.
DeleteWould it work putting the switch in series? That makes more sense to me (because the switch would be opening and closing the circuit between the mic and camera). But if there is some advantage to connecting both mic and switch to the camera input please explain if possible. Thanks again... I am sorry for all the questions.
Never mind! I've got everything working now. I should have just played around with it a while before asking stupid questions.
DeleteIt was quite a thrill capturing two 15m reels today. I used a sine wave generator on my phone rather than a mic. I used magic lantern's audio monitoring function to listen to the tones. Based on the cadence I didn't notice any dropped frames. I still have to figure out the avisynth steps but I think I can get it figured out.
Thanks again for posting your methods--I copied them almost exactly. If I can get a decent result I will upload to vimeo and send you a link.
Cheers!
Dan
Glad you got it working. :-) Did you manage to get some video?
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DeleteHaha it seems when I am having a problem all I need to do is make a long post here about it and magically I solve the problem an hour later. I deleted my earlier posts because they were simply due to my own careless errors. Your script indeed works fine. I just ran it successfully on my first Super-8 capture and I am impressed with the results. I still need to adjust the cropping and I think before I capture any more films I will clean them with some film cleaning fluid.
ReplyDeleteWhen I have something I am completely happy with I will upload to vimeo and send you the link--hopefully very soon. Thank you again so much.