2012/09/22

DIY synced telecine with Eumig Mark 610D and Canon 60D

I have a box full of Super 8mm films from my parrents. This is a 'small' project i have started to get them digitally transferred. I have probably spent several hundred hours finding things out and would like to share some of my findings.

I started to buy a second hand Euming Mark 610D from finn.no (like ebay in norway)

Idea was to modify the 610D to get out a sync pulse every time the film advances in the gate. Transfer frames to a Canon 60D in video mode with sync info saved on the audio track. Use avisynth to extract progressive frames from the videofiles and do stabilisation and noise canceling.

Backlight:
A lot of other sites refer to this link: http://blog.iso50.com/23724/convert-8mm-with-5d-mark-ii/
I tried a similar point source with a small flat led, but could not get even focus, might be bad combination with the lens or something. I got a lot of blooming and fuzz round the edges.
I read videoFred's webpage and saw his diffuse backlight so i tried that. I ended up with a big (9W ?) white power led and a diffusor. I found this on ikea:
It is white and have a pyramid diffusor pattern. I cut out a pice and put it in the euming like this:


Remove Shutterblades and S8 R8 crop:
Because i planned to use video function of the 60D i removed the shutterblades. I figured the automatic exposure would have a porblem with it, and also the shutterblades in my Mark 610D run at full speed even with 3 fps film advance. I removed the shutteblades by making a weak spot with a dremel and then jus pry/break them off.







Camera and lens:
I tried at first to mount a Canon 60mm F2.8 on 3 sets of extension tubes and having the camera on a tripod. I was able to fill enough of the DSLR sensor, but there was too much problems with vibrations from the heavy lens so far off my light tripod. Instead i mounted the lens on the projector :-)

I drilled a hole in a storage dustcap for cannon lenses. Mounted it on the 610D with double sided tape. I have borrowed a nice lens: Canon 60mm F2.8. This lens is then projecting the light directly onto the 60D sensor.



On the 60D i only use extension tube to keep out light. I have mounted it on a heavy steel plate from a hardware store and use some M5 bolts and wingnuts to level the plane. I also use a cheap macro slider in between the steel plate and the camera for focusing.



The lens have F2.8, this turned out to be too narrow since i was able to focus on different layers in the film itself. Smaller hole should be able to only let light that have passed prepindicular through the film to enter the lens. And since canon dont have manual apperture i had to improvise:


I have installed a nice firmware hack called Magic Lantern on the 60D. This is a useful tool when transfering films. You get histograms, zebra marks and VU meter while recording. It is magic.

Update: I found it very hard to adjust focus using the camerabody screen. So i connected the HDMI out to a computer monitor with hdmi input. I get very good picture of the 8mm film on the monitor making it easy to adjust focus using the macro slider. When i hit record on the camera body the resolution out of the HDMI port drops to something like old VGA, but then the focus is already good.

Dynamic range:
To be able to capture the dynamic range of the film i have installed a "flat" Picture style in the 60D. I used the one from Marwel: it can be found here: http://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/2011/01/19/finally-the-new-marvels-cine-profile-3-x-for-canon-dslr/



UPDATE: Sync cable:

I use a cheap condenser microphone parallelled with a microswitch mounted in the projector. The switch will mute the microphone using the normally closed pole. When the film is advanced the sound signal from my noisy room is not shorted and sent to the camera. This fits the Avisynth GetDups plugin perfect as it have a mode to select frames between loud noises. To adjust the sync to not get a frame with film advance i use the shift audio input to GetDups.

Software:

Avisynth
I process the 1080p25 MOV files from the 60D using a script based on videoFred's restoration script . This guy is clever. Check out his website at http://www.super-8.be/.
My version of his script is here:  
http://pastebin.com/Aiu7Zjxx
It is not pretty but it works. Input is 1080p25 video with 6 fps framerate on the Eumig 610D.  Output is 18fps progressive

Virtual Dub
I open the avisynth script in virtual dub, select codec
Cineform Gopro codec ( gets installed together with the software for Gopro)
Select save AVI and then wait. :-)  My computer is able to run the script and encode cineform at 1fps.

Result:
Here is a still from the video after motion stabilization, noisefiltering, colorcorrection, cropping and resize to 1280x720 . It is me and my grandmother may be 1983.
 

As 18 fps is not supported on vimeo i frameblended to 24fps when transcoding to vimeo. 
Pretty pleased with the result. Almost Instagram quality so it should be good enough :P

11 comments:

  1. Nice Work Øystein,

    Thanks for putting this information up. Your transfer looks great.

    Can you provide more information regarding the sound synch with the microphone socket of the Camera. I've been looking at doing something similar. I was thinking of using a Morse code circuit for the sound generation. This web site has a circuit which I think should work: http://www.electronics-project-design.com/CodePracticeOscillator.html
    My idea was to use the amplitude peaks from the sound track as a way to select the correct frame from the .mov file. Is this what Getdups does?

    Thanks
    Stephan

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    1. Actually i was thinking of the same(building a sine generator), but as it turns out it can be done with only a microphone and switch as Getdups in the audio mode takes the select the peak audio amplitude sample of the current frame. That means any sound above 50Hz will be able to trigger a frame pick. So i placed my microphone (cheap with 3.5mm jack) pretty close to the projector to collect a lot of sound and turned up the volume on the Camera. I made an 3.5mm mono extension cable where the switch is shorting the sound signal when it is at rest, and open (not shorting the sound signal) when the film advance. Then the extension cable is connected directly into the 3.5mm jack input of the 60D. I will update the post with more pictures of this as soon as i get the time. :-)

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  2. Very cool. I like the way you're syncing frames using the mic - it's far superior to others taking still images of each frame which will quickly wear a dslr's shutter out! I have a tip - if you set the aperture on a canon body then press and hold the depth of field preview button (bottom left of the lens mount when holding the camera) while removing the lens, the aperture will remain in the position it was set to while mounted to the body. It's better than taping off the back of the lens :)

    Check out my telecine project at
    http://www.rjnunnally.com/tag/telecine/

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  3. Oystein. are you from Bergen? I bought a Workprinter XP (just captures in DV) and i'm trying to solve the problem to capture S8 in HD, with a Canon 6D. Maybe we could talk about this. My name is Gonçalo, Portuguese, painter and working in Bergen also in amateur film. goncalopena67(at)gmail.com. Could you give me some advice on this?
    best regards

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  4. No, Sorry, not from Bergen. I live in Trondheim. I think you can use your Workprinter xp together with your 6D if u get a HDMI capture card in your computer. There probably then exist some free stop motion software that let you capture stills in HD using the mouse. You might need a beefy computer to pull it off at any high speed.

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  5. Øystein,

    Very impressive work. Thank you for documenting your method--I intend to give it a try. I have a question regarding the lens. I have a full-frame camera (EOS 6D) I want to use for this. I'm not sure I have a suitable lens, however. One problem with macro lenses is that the "working distance (between subject and front of lens) is so short it is difficult or impossible to get close enough to the film gate. I take it (given your success) that you did not have this problem with the EF-S 60mm macro lens?

    I see in the end you reverse mounted it onto the projector (quite ingenious!). May I ask when you did that, how much of your 60D's sensor were you able to fill with the image? I ask because of the 6D's larger sensor size I guess I may need a different lens in order to fill most of the the 24x36 sensor.

    I wish I understood more about the physics of lenses and could intuitively understand exactly what lens I need given the constraint of working distance from the film gate to front of lens... any hints you could provide would be most helpful (to others too I'm sure).

    Thanks again!

    Dan

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    1. Hi Dan.
      Thank you for the kind words.

      I played around a bit with the lens calculator here:
      http://www.giangrandi.ch/optics/lenses/focalcalc.html
      I have x1.6 crop sensor so according to the lens calculator here you could use the same distance that i have tried if you had a ~54mm lens. Lower mm gives bigger image. But u can actually just move the DSLR body further back with the 60mm.
      It works wery similar to a normal office/home cinema projector. So distance to the wall determines the size.

      Because the film advance transport was not that accurate on my projector (some jumping in the image) i decided to not fill the entre sensor so i have a litte bit of the upper and lower frame in the raw film from the camera. That way the image stabilisation can do its magic afterwords removing both transport inacuracy in my setup and the original film camera. I ended up with 720p after stabilisation and crop.

      Øystein

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  6. Hi Øystein,

    I tried to post a reply a few days ago but it seems to have gotten lost (maybe because I had a link in it). Thank you for your reply.

    I've figured out my lens scenario... mounting the lens in reverse as you have I actually need a longer focal length than 60mm, not shorter. Expirimenting with my 55-250mm zoom lens I found I could fill the 24x36mm sensor @ about 100mm focal length. Rather than buy or rent the Canon 100mm macro, I think I'm going to just try to use the lens(es) I already have and see how the sharpness is.

    Anyway, I have two more questions I would really appreciate your input on:

    1. How did you remove the shutter blades? I know you said you used a dremel to weaken and snapped them off by flexing, but did you do this without removing the shutter assembly from the projector? If so, what side did you do it from? It looks like the lamp side provides a bit easier access but maybe by removing the aluminum piece on the other side it's even easier to get to. My fear of disassembling anything on the motor side is not being able to put it back together right! This Eumig is quite a complex mechanism.

    2. Some other people who modified this projector mounted the microswitch in the plastic film channel above the rear tensioner. A pulldown at the gate should cause the tensioner to move and thus trigger the switch to unmute the microphone. This looks like a much easier place to mount the switch, but I wondered if you had tried it there first and found it to be unsuitable?

    I have widened the gate now... which made me very nervous but I think I did it OK. I had to widen the pressure plate on the front of the lens housing a bit as well. I need to polish it now so it doesn't scratch the film.

    Much appreciate your help.

    Dan

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dan
      Glad to be of any help.
      Nice to hear you figured out the lens issue. Im not that good at optics so i must have gotten it wrong :-)
      1) When i removed the blades i actually had the motor out. This was a bit tricky i remember but actually how i did it, but it was out when i removed the blades from the motorside. The metal is quite brittle so a little veakening and they snap of with a pair of pliers.
      2) I did not think of that when i did it. So i dont know what is the best solution for triggering the switch. If the movement of the tensioning is reliable it would probably do the trick. Btw. The switch was not destroyed during my transfers with 2 hours worth of film. The belt snapped but i got a new off ebay :)
      I did not widen the pressure plate because i was afraid it might damage the film, but now i think about dooing it and redo the transfers.

      Good luck :)

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    2. Thanks, yes I found a thread on videohelp.com which explains how to remove the transformer and motor in order to gain access to the shutter blades. I've done this now and the good news is that my shutter is now bladeless. :)

      The bad news is that I foolishly decided to do the whole thing via dremel and now there are aluminum metal shavings everywhere. I should have considered all the grease just a few cm away from where I was working. So now before I proceed any further I need to try to clean the inside of the projector very well to keep those metal bits away from the film path. (probably not too good for all the gears either). I have a new belt to put on as well (the old one is still intact but is disintegrating).

      I suppose while I have the motor out I will work on trying to put in the microswitch. I'm sure I will have more questions for you then. I saw your other post where you show the mounting location so I think I know the metal "flap" you describe which moves out on pulldown. But I'm not sure if the switch I purchased is too big for that location.

      I think I have decided against mounting the microswitch on the rear tensioner as I found some other discussion which says that the location is problematic and can cause unreliable actuation of the switch such as when splices or damaged sprocket holes pass through the gate. The location you have used seems to be the most reliable because it is triggered directly by the pulldown motion.

      But first things first, time to bring out the isopropyl and air compressor and try to clean this baby up.

      Thanks!

      P.S. If you decide to widen the gate/pressure plate it really helps to have a small piece of leader or scrap film you can feed thru and check your progress as you go. It is very easy to remove too much with a file so it might be helpful to draw some lines each mm so you can see how much you have removed. I didn't do that but I wish I had.

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    3. I can understand your Avisynth script, except for start=0#(30)*fs_camera
      end=0#(17*60+53)*fs_camera. I know this is to trim the unwanted frames but what are the numbers referring to? Also the # comments them out does it not?

      Keith Wilkinson

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